At long last, the time has finally come. I have managed to get all the parts ready to go ahead with the build of the MediaBox. So I wont bore you any more and dive right in. Here is the full list of the hardware that the MediaBox was built with.
Follow up:
- Omaura TF5 HTPC Case
- Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H
- Hiper HFC 20820-C1 Low profile Cooler
- AMD Athlon X2 4200
- 1GB Corsair Memory (plain vanilla)
- 160GB Maxtor SATA HD
- LITEON DVD-RW Slim loading slot drive
- Small IDE to standard IDE converter
- M2-ATX 160W DC-DC PSU
- 150W Maplin power brick
- Panel mount 2.5mm DC socket
- 2 x small crimp blades
- 20 pin ATX extension cable
- P4 12v extension cable
So with the hardware all tallied up it was on with the build. Instantly I had a problem. The cooler backplate on the motherboard was held in place with plastic plugs, but the Hiper CPU cooler needed to be screwed into the backplate, so it wasn't compatible. Lucky for me I had an older motherboard lying around which had the metal backplate with screw holes for the mounting side. So by removing the stock gigabyte back plate and replacing it with a spare metal one I managed to mount the cooler no problem after that.
Mounting the gigabyte board into the TF5 was no problem, the only thing that I would say is that the ATX backplate for the external connectors was a tight fit, but that was more to do with the fact that part of the frame had bent during shipping.
Now the card reader, front USB, font audio and firewire was a little frustrating to connect due to the lack of documentation that came with the TF5 case, so it was a process of figuring out which connector goes where on the motherboard, but I got there in the end.
Here is a shot of the motherboard with CPU and RAM in place mounted inside the TF5 with the front connectors connected to the motherboard.
Moving on, it was time to connect the PSU. As explained in a previous post, I decided to go with a DC-DC power supply to keep noise levels down. And lucky for me, there where M3 sized holes in perfect position to mount the M2-ATX.
So simply mounting two M3 stand-offs in the holes was all that was needed and I was then able to mount the PSU on top
The M2-ATX comes with a 20 pin ATX connector and a 12v P4 connector, but unfortunately neither of them where long enough to connect to the motherboard so I had to purchase an extra extension cable for each.

I have the same problem as you did with the Hiper HFC 20820-C1 Low profile Cooler with the Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H, but unlike you, I don't have any spare motherboards lying around to canibalize...
What is your suggestion in that circumstance?
Thanks again for the blog.
You can buy a bolt through kit. Not sure where about you are, but you can get them at SpecialTech http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=5775if you live in the UK.
Well that is what you call customer service. Glad you have solved the problem with the backplate. Let me know how the rest of the install goes for you.
Well the ones that where installed on my board had to be removed from the underside. I had to get pliers to crush the end and the pull through from the other side. After that the metal backplate just comes through the 4 holes in the board from the back.
I take it you need a dc powerboard with both the 20 and 4 pin connectors as most boards now come with a 24 pin motherboard connector (it's been a while since I have built a machine)?
cheers
Well the PSU backplate should have come with the Omaura case that I purchased, but I never had it and as far as I can tell Omaura are no longer running anymore (which is a shame, as their cases were really nice).
I had the DC-DC PSU from LinITX.
The M2-ATX certainly does, there a jumpers on the board for various power down/up settings for car ignitions, or there is a simple plain PC mode when not in use in a car. The ignition connection is not used, in a car it would be used to power on the PSU from the ignition
Well off the top of my head I believe the M2-ATX has a 20 pin, but 24 pin motherboards with accept a 20 pin ATX connector, The extra 4 pins on the motherboard are more power lines but most DC-DC boards won't spit out that much power anyway. The 4 pins are usually used by high powered GPU's etc... which would be no good for DC-DC boards anyway.
Can you please tell me how to connect the power button (the 2 led connectors) on the motherboard - i thought the lack of documentation was only my problem. maybe you can add a detailed picture
thank you
The LED around the power button is connected to the Omaura light on the very right hand side of the case (you can see this on the first picture), the cable then should have a splice somewhere in the middle which will connected to the Power LED header on your motherboard. Hope that helps.
The splice in the middle ends with 2 connectors both named "LED" and both with 2 pins. think I'll have to follow them to the end. I've expected one of them named "power swr" or something like that. thank you for now - nice blog anyway cu
Is there a way of avoiding that?
Excellent blog by the way :D
A company called Specialtech in the UK